Problem solved!

Today, my post is about showing how my problem was solved with not being able to use my light table or window to transfer the applique layout onto my borders.  The fabric was just too dark to see through.

To get started, photocopies were made of the applique pattern.  Since my top was made a lot bigger than the original pattern, extra parts of the border applique was added.

Pasting and cutting the photocopies together until the perfect length was made.  Then I started cutting out the applique bits.  This is part of what my stencil looks like.

Can you see blue tabs on the stem part?  I had to put them there and colour them to remind me not to cut out those parts; otherwise my stencil would just fall apart.

My top is then laid out onto my cutting table and weighted down so that it doesn't move.

The cut-out stencil is placed on top of the fabric border and secured after being lined up just so.   Those yellow circle things that you see are weights.   I will use pins to secure the stencil to the fabric also just in case the top slips a bit down towards the floor.

There is a reason why I bought these pounce notions!  They have never been used until now.  This is just the chalk version and they don't stay around too long as the chalk is too easy to brush off.  Next time I come across the version that has the pounce that is ironed off .... I will purchase it!

So, I pounced away at the the empty spaces on my stencil and then removed my paper stencil and shook out all the loose chalk.  Looks good .... well sort of!  At least, I can actually see the design on the fabric now.

Since I am very particular about my circles, I did take time to trace them.

A plastic template that has all different circle sizes is very handy.   Crayola washable markers is used for marking my circles.

Then, my stem is placed on top of the chalk line and pinned in place.

Then, the leaves are added.  All my stems, leaves and circles have been prepared in advance and all I have to do is place them on top of the chalk outline.  More pins.

Next up is the red circles.  Yep, more pins again.

All pinned in place.  Lots of pins in there.  How do I manage those pins without anything coming loose?  Basting is the next step.  Yes, a lot of time spent basting, but it is so worth it.  Someone said that glue would also work well if you want to give that a try.  I'll stick to basting with thread and needle.

Once everything on that section of border is basted in place, the next section is ready to go and all the steps are repeated, except the stencil is reversed or flipped to the left.  In other words, one side has printing on it and the backside doesn't.

There, last two sections all basted in place and ready for me to sew.

A close-up of the basting.

Tune the music for dancing because that is what I'll be doing soon!

Have a great day!

Linking to:
http://www.esthersquiltblog.com/
http://needleandthreadnetwork.blogspot.com/

Oh Darn

Just when I thought that borders were ready to be sewn onto my triangle quilt, I realized that it was not the right size on the length.  Oh darn .....

So, on that note, more triangles are being cut out for one more row.  Some striped fabric was auditioned for the border, but I'm not sold on it yet.

Now, I have been asked about my triangle pattern.  Where can you get one?  My pattern came from my EQ7 program under One Patch.  It is really a hexagon that has been sectioned off.  I simply turned my hexagons into triangles for ease of sewing.  

 

 If you can't get a hexagon big enough, below is another way that you can make the templates.

Once my paper template is ready and cut out, a plastic template will be made that has a good 3/8" seam allowance.  I allow extra fabric at the seams which is trimmed later.

My plastic template is used for drawing the design onto a piece of fabric.

The design is drawn and will be cut out with scissors.  A good project for catching up on TV programs.

 Here are my fabric pieces ready for the paper templates.

Paper template pinned in place.  See the seams at the top two sides?  Just make sure they measure 1/4".

The two short edges are folded over and basted in place.  This is what it looks like from the front.

This is the back.

Take your ruler and line up 1/4" on one long side.  Trim.

Then do the other side.

Sides are trimmed and ready for sewing.

Place the templates in this order.  You need a dark, medium and light to make a triangle.  You have to be aware of placing each piece so that you don't have a light against a light, etc.  At the sides (see the two arrows), you will need to open up some of the shorter seams that were basted (and this is why it was important to allow the 1/4" seam allowance)

Once you are happy with your placement, it is time to start hand sewing triangles together.  This is what the front looks like.

This is what the back looks light.  If you follow the directions for making your own triangle template, your side should measure 6".  The smaller arrows show the seams sewn together.  At this point, all the basting and paper templates are removed.

You will need some half triangles to finish the sides as shown below.

 Just take your paper templates and cut in half.

 You will need to reverse half of your side templates to get an even edge.

 Once your triangles are hand sewn together, then it is time to start sewing those triangles together.

 This is my system of marking my triangles for sewing so that none of the triangles get messed up.  Trust me, it really is easy to twist those triangles around, even when you mark them.

This is what one row looks like all sewn together.  Happy days!

So, back to cutting and basting to get that last row done.

Have a great day!

Apple Core Edges

Since I have been asked how my apple core edges were done, here is my step-by-step 'how to'.  Enjoy!

My edges are made from strips of red fabric (2-1/4" wide) and they are appliquéd to the edges of my apple cores.  Some of you thought that I cut out a whole bunch of red apple cores, sewed them on and then squared up the edges to get a straight edge.  Nope, that was way too much work!  :o)

This is the one edge of my apple cores.  Where you see the white arrows, these edges have to be clipped and basted or turned under.  Since I don't do needle turn, they were basted instead.

When clipping, I always like to clip from the back so that my cut doesn't go too far.

Then I baste under those clipped edges.  The drawn curved line is my guide for turning under.

There, my edges are all turned under and I'm ready to start pinning and sewing them down.

To determine the amount of fabric needed to place my apple cores onto the strip of fabric, a bit of measuring is needed.  I place my ruler on the valley part of the apple core (see black arrows) and move it so that there is 1/4" for seam allowance.  Then I see on the top of the hill part of the apple core my measurement looks to be 1-1/8" in height.  To round off, I will chose to go with 1-1/4" and that will give me extra fabric to pin the valley edges to the red fabric..

On my strip of red fabric, I will mark off 1-1/4" from the bottom edge.  You can barely see the line, but just look at the arrow for guidance.

Then, I place my apple core (the hill will be right on the 1-1/4" marked line.  A lot of pins are used to secure the cores in place.  My pins will only go to where you see the vertical pin (see black arrow) and that is my stopping point for sewing.  There is a reason for this.

Below, I'm just appliquéing the edges to the red fabric.

Many of you have asked what thread I prefer to use for appliqué and for EPP.  Over the years, many different types of thread have been tried and discarded.  This brand of thread is my favourite.  It doesn't tend to tangle, it doesn't slide out of the needle, it doesn't get caught on the rough skin on my fingers and it doesn't fray.  This is my go-to thread all the time.  For my apple cores, this colour of thread was used throughout.  I did not switch to matching colour for every core.  It worked quite well.

The reason for stopping at the intersection between the blue and neutral print fabric is so that I have room to attach the next piece of red fabric (see the black arrow).  I can move the sewn apple core section out of the way.

My next red strip of fabric has been sewn on.  Yes, this is an odd area to have a seam; but this is the only way it will work because of the 1-1/4" marked line.  The corner apple core looks odd, but it is perfectly aligned.

My next section of apple core edges have been pinned in place and is ready for appliquéing.

This is what it looks like from the back once the edges have been appliquéd on.  Don't remove those papers just yet.  They are left there to act as a safety zone so that when trimming, you don't accidently cut into the apple core fabrics on the front.  Hmmm .... how do I know that could happen?  :o)

Following my appliquéd line, the excess red fabric is trimmed away leaving a good 1/4" seam allowance.

Once the excess fabric has been trimmed away, this is the time now to remove all the papers.

So, here are a number of my edges all sewn together.  I love it!

Did you see that missing chunk of section in the photo above?  Well, here it is ready to be worked on.

I still have another step that you need to know about, but I can't describe it to you at this time.  I need to make a whole bunch of apple cores and sew together the remaining 1/4 section and take photos for you to see.  This post will be edited when that time comes.

Have a great day!